One Man's Guide to Climbing McKinley, aka Denali

One Man's Guide to Climbing McKinley, aka Denali
(and other high cold places)

20 May - 8 Jun 2005 - by Tim Hult

Peaks: Mount McKinley, Denali
(sorted/filed as Mckinley, Denali)

Participants: Scott Warner, Steve Shields, Joe Burton, Tim Hult

Difficulty: ice axe, crampons, glaciers, skis, rope used

Click on the links in the HTML Table of Contents below to jump into the PDF file. You'll need Adobe's Acrobat Reader installed to view this document. Once in the document you can click on the left-column thumbnails or scroll to the PDF Table of Contents and click on any section or figure there.

Text and Photos by Timothy Hult - Revision 3, February 2009
Copyright (c) 2009 by Timothy D. Hult - all rights reserved.
Published on Climber.Org with author's permission.

Table of Contents (see also Figures and Tables)

- FORWARD, CREDITS, REVISION NOTES Page 2

- TABLE OF CONTENTS (click on lines to jump inside PDF file) Page 4

- LIST OF FIGURES (click on lines to jump inside PDF file) Page 7

- LIST OF TABLES (click on lines to jump inside PDF file) Page 8

1 PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION Page 9

2 INTRODUCTION Page 9

2.1.1.1 Anecdote: Which is Harder Everest or McKinley? Page 11

2.2 Weather Page 11

2.2.1 Weather Zones Page 12

2.2.2 Weather cycles Page 12

2.3 McKinley Weather Forecast Page 13

2.4 Suggested climbing strategy Page 17

2.4.1 "Sneaking up" on Big Mountains like McKINLEY Page 17

2.4.2 Potential summit schedule from 14k Page 18

2.4.2.1 Anecdote: The Wind. The wind Page 20

2.4.2.2 Anecdote: Snuggling with Amy. Page 20

2.5 Are you ready for Big Mac? Page 20

2.6 Attitude and Success Page 21

2.7 Picking Your Partner(s) Page 22

2.8 When to go and how long to budget Page 23

2.8.1.1 Anecdote: Crevasses and throwing the "Poo bag". Page 23

3 EQUIPMENT: Page 25

3.1 Tents: Page 25

3.1.1 Thoughts on Pitching your Tent Page 26

3.1.1.1 Anecdote: McKinley isn't a three-season mountain: Page 27

3.2 Personal Equipment (Hardware & Such) Page 28

3.3 Personal Equipment List Page 30

3.3.1 A word on Books and other Diversions: Page 32

3.3.2 Photography: Page 32

3.3.2.1 Film Photography: Page 33

3.3.2.2 Digital Photography Page 34

3.3.3 Sleeping Bags Page 35

3.3.3.1 Anecdote: Warming from the inside out Page 37

3.3.4 Sleeping Pads Page 38

3.3.5 Drag Bags vs. Sleds Page 38

3.3.6 Hydration systems: Page 40

3.3.6.1 Purifying Drinking Water Page 40

3.3.7 What is a PEE BOTTLE and why do you want one? Page 40

3.3.8 Vapor Barrier Socks. Page 40

3.3.9 Skis vs. snow shoes. Page 41

3.3.10 Choosing a backpack. Page 42

4 GROUP EQUIPMENT Page 44

4.1 Group Equipment List Page 44

4.2 Radios, Cell Phones and Family Service Radios (FSRs): Page 45

4.2.1 CB radio: Page 45

4.2.2 FSR (Family Service Radios "Talk Abouts") Page 46

4.2.3 Cell Phone: Page 46

4.2.4 2m Single Side Band Radio. Page 47

4.2.5 Satellite phones Page 47

4.2.6 Renting a Satellite Phone Page 47

4.3 Emergency Locator Beacon Page 49

4.4 Stove: Page 49

4.4.1 Problems with Gas Stoves Page 49

4.5 First Aid kit and Medical training: Page 50

4.6 A Discussion on Weight Page 51

4.7 What I don't think is very useful Page 56

5 CLOTHING: Page 57

5.1.1.1 Anecdote: Remembering your grade school mittens Page 57

5.2 Clothing List Page 59

5.2.1 What I wore lower on the mountain. Page 61

5.2.2 Down Jackets and Parkas Page 61

5.2.3 Down Pants Page 63

5.2.4 Boots and socks Page 64

5.2.4.1 Some thoughts on Vapor Barrier Socks Page 66

6 FOOD AND COOKING Page 68

6.1 Cooking Equipment List Page 71

6.1.1 A Discussion About Super Efficient Cooking Systems Page 72

6.1.2 Clean-up Tips: Page 72

6.1.3 Wind screens and the Science of Boiling Water Page 72

6.2 Menus and Food Page 73

6.2.1 Food considerations: Page 73

6.2.2 Some food suggestions: Page 75

6.2.2.1 Anecdote: "Kudo" Bars to the Max Page 76

7 NAVIGATION Page 77

7.1 GPS use on McKinley Page 77

7.1.1.1 Anecdote: Humans as Blankets Page 77

7.2 Several Navigation Tips: Page 78

8 HYGIENE Page 81

8.1 Hygiene Items and Considerations Page 81

8.2 General Hygiene and Toilet Practices: Page 82

8.3 Human Waste Disposal Page 83

8.4 To shave or not to shave: Page 84

8.4.1.1 Antidote: What kind of Harness do you want? Page 85

9 SKILLS YOU'LL NEED Page 87

9.1.1.1 Anecdotes on Crevasse Rescue and Safety: Page 87

10 PACKING FOR THE AIRLINES AND OTHER AIR TRAVEL CONSIDERATIONS Page 89

10.1 Gas, Fuel Canisters, and Other "Terrorist" Items Page 89

10.2 Airline Reservation flexibility Page 89

10.3 Packing for the Flight Page 90

11 A SUGGESTED READING LIST: Page 91

12 DENALI WILL KILL YOU (DISCLAIMER) Page 92

13 COMPARISON OF CLIMBING SCHEDULES Page 97

14 OTHER SOURCES OF INFORMATION AND RELEVANT NEWS ITEMS ON CLIMBING DENALI Page 103

14.1 Relevant News in 2008 typical of the climbing season on McKinley Page 103

14.2 Park Service Web Site and information Page 104

14.3 Current Weather on Denali Page 104

List of Figures (see also Contents and Tables)

Cover Photo Mt McKinley from the Denali Park Road Page 1

Figure 1 Around Windy (Icy!) Corner (13,000 ft.) Note storm clouds below Page 15

Figure 2 Snowshoeing through a snowstorm at 10,000 feet Page 16

Figure 3 The successful 2005 "3-D" Team on top of McKinley 20,320 ft Page 19

Figure 4 Throwing the "Poo bag" at 11k into a monster Crevasse Page 24

Figure 5 Snow Wall surround tents at 14,000 ft, poor weather Clouds and Mt Hunter in the background Page 26

Figure 6 Proper Tent Pitching in a McKinley Snow Hole Page 27

Figure 7 Our Group's Climbing Equipment Stash at 14,000 ft Page 28

Figure 8 Tim Hult Skiing up the Kahiltna 9,500 ft Page 29

Figure 9 Joe Burton Working Cross word puzzles at 17,200 ft Page 32

Figure 10 Joe Burton in his Big, -40 F/C Down Sleeping Bag Page 37

Figure 11 Scott Warner Hefts his Monster Load at 8,000 feet Page 43

Figure 12 Scott Warner Starts out with way too much weight 2005 Page 52

Figure 13 Scott Warner Practicing crevasse self-rescue on a training trip Page 53

Figure 14 Mount Hunter from 8,000 ft Camp Page 54

Figure 15 Skiing up the Lower Kahiltna in a Low Clouds and Fog Page 55

Figure 16 The Rescue Helicopter Evacuates a climber from 14,000 ft Page 58

Figure 17 Tim's Summit Kit Page 64

Figure 18 Going Down from 14,000 to pick up a Cache. Mt Foraker in background Page 67

Figure 19 Climbers moving up from Windy Corner at Dusk, Mt Hunter in background Page 67

Figure 20 Joe Burton Prepares a Meal at 11,000 ft Page 69

Figure 21 Day One Getting Ready to Pulling The Full Load Out of 7,000 ft Page 69

Figure 22 Typical unbalanced sled position Page 70

Figure 23 Freezing Fog on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier Page 79

Figure 24 Moving Up The West Buttress in Foggy Weather (15k 16,000 ft) Page 80

Figure 25 Joe Burton Disposing the of the "Poo Bag" in a BIG Crevasse at 11,000 ft Page 83

Figure 26 The High Altitude Poo Bucket and Other Gear at 17k Page 84

Figure 27 Taking a sponge "bath" at 11,000 ft Page 86

Figure 28 Alaska Range Memorial Board Page 92

Figure 29 Denali from 8,000 ft, NE Fork of the Kahiltna (foreground), West Rib (middle), and Denali's 20, 320 ft Summit Page 93

Figure 30 Clouds "spill" over Kahiltna Pass at 11 PM - 12,000 ft Page 94

Figure 31 11,000 ft Camp Page 95

Figure 32 The "ants" Marching up the West Buttress from 14,000 ft to 16,000 ft. on a good weather day Page 96

List of Tables (see also Contents and Figures)

Table 1 Personal Equipment List Page 30

Table 2 Group Equipment List Page 44

Table 3 Non-useful Items Page 56

Table 4 Clothing List Page 59

Table 5 Cooking Equipment List Page 71

Table 6 Hygiene List Page 81

Table 7 Climbing Schedule Comparison Page 97

To file a trip report, please fill in the Report Entry form or contact the webmaster.

Table of Contents (see also Figures and Tables)
-	FORWARD, CREDITS, REVISION NOTES	Page 2
-	TABLE OF CONTENTS (click on lines to jump inside PDF file)	Page 4
-	LIST OF FIGURES (click on lines to jump inside PDF file)	Page 7
-	LIST OF TABLES (click on lines to jump inside PDF file)	Page 8
1	PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION	Page 9
2	INTRODUCTION	Page 9
2.1.1.1	Anecdote: Which is Harder Everest or McKinley?	Page 11
2.2	Weather	Page 11
2.2.1	Weather Zones	Page 12
2.2.2	Weather cycles	Page 12
2.3	McKinley Weather Forecast	Page 13
2.4	Suggested climbing strategy	Page 17
2.4.1	"Sneaking up" on Big Mountains like McKINLEY	Page 17
2.4.2	Potential summit schedule from 14k	Page 18
2.4.2.1	Anecdote: The Wind. The wind	Page 20
2.4.2.2	Anecdote: Snuggling with Amy.	Page 20
2.5	Are you ready for Big Mac?	Page 20
2.6	Attitude and Success	Page 21
2.7	Picking Your Partner(s)	Page 22
2.8	When to go and how long to budget	Page 23
2.8.1.1	Anecdote: Crevasses and throwing the "Poo bag".	Page 23
3	EQUIPMENT:	Page 25
3.1	Tents:	Page 25
3.1.1	Thoughts on Pitching your Tent	Page 26
3.1.1.1	Anecdote: McKinley isn't a three-season mountain:	Page 27
3.2	Personal Equipment (Hardware & Such)	Page 28
3.3	Personal Equipment List	Page 30
3.3.1	A word on Books and other Diversions:	Page 32
3.3.2	Photography:	Page 32
3.3.2.1	Film Photography:	Page 33
3.3.2.2	Digital Photography	Page 34
3.3.3	Sleeping Bags	Page 35
3.3.3.1	Anecdote: Warming from the inside out	Page 37
3.3.4	Sleeping Pads	Page 38
3.3.5	Drag Bags vs. Sleds	Page 38
3.3.6	Hydration systems:	Page 40
3.3.6.1	Purifying Drinking Water	Page 40
3.3.7	What is a PEE BOTTLE and why do you want one?	Page 40
3.3.8	Vapor Barrier Socks.	Page 40
3.3.9	Skis vs. snow shoes.	Page 41
3.3.10	Choosing a backpack.	Page 42
4	GROUP EQUIPMENT	Page 44
4.1	Group Equipment List	Page 44
4.2	Radios, Cell Phones and Family Service Radios (FSRs):	Page 45
4.2.1	CB radio:	Page 45
4.2.2	FSR (Family Service Radios "Talk Abouts")	Page 46
4.2.3	Cell Phone:	Page 46
4.2.4	2m Single Side Band Radio.	Page 47
4.2.5	Satellite phones	Page 47
4.2.6	Renting a Satellite Phone	Page 47
4.3	Emergency Locator Beacon	Page 49
4.4	Stove:	Page 49
4.4.1	Problems with Gas Stoves	Page 49
4.5	First Aid kit and Medical training:	Page 50
4.6	A Discussion on Weight	Page 51
4.7	What I don't think is very useful	Page 56
5	CLOTHING:	Page 57
5.1.1.1	Anecdote: Remembering your grade school mittens	Page 57
5.2	Clothing List	Page 59
5.2.1	What I wore lower on the mountain.	Page 61
5.2.2	Down Jackets and Parkas	Page 61
5.2.3	Down Pants	Page 63
5.2.4	Boots and socks	Page 64
5.2.4.1	Some thoughts on Vapor Barrier Socks	Page 66
6	FOOD AND COOKING	Page 68
6.1	Cooking Equipment List	Page 71
6.1.1	A Discussion About Super Efficient Cooking Systems	Page 72
6.1.2	Clean-up Tips:	Page 72
6.1.3	Wind screens and the Science of Boiling Water	Page 72
6.2	Menus and Food	Page 73
6.2.1	Food considerations:	Page 73
6.2.2	Some food suggestions:	Page 75
6.2.2.1	Anecdote: "Kudo" Bars to the Max	Page 76
7	NAVIGATION	Page 77
7.1	GPS use on McKinley	Page 77
7.1.1.1	Anecdote: Humans as Blankets	Page 77
7.2	Several Navigation Tips:	Page 78
8	HYGIENE	Page 81
8.1	Hygiene Items and Considerations	Page 81
8.2	General Hygiene and Toilet Practices:	Page 82
8.3	Human Waste Disposal	Page 83
8.4	To shave or not to shave:	Page 84
8.4.1.1	Antidote: What kind of Harness do you want?	Page 85
9	SKILLS YOU'LL NEED	Page 87
9.1.1.1	Anecdotes on Crevasse Rescue and Safety:	Page 87
10	PACKING FOR THE AIRLINES AND OTHER AIR TRAVEL CONSIDERATIONS	Page 89
10.1	Gas, Fuel Canisters, and Other "Terrorist" Items	Page 89
10.2	Airline Reservation flexibility	Page 89
10.3	Packing for the Flight	Page 90
11	A SUGGESTED READING LIST:	Page 91
12	DENALI WILL KILL YOU (DISCLAIMER)	Page 92
13	COMPARISON OF CLIMBING SCHEDULES	Page 97
14	OTHER SOURCES OF INFORMATION AND RELEVANT NEWS ITEMS ON CLIMBING DENALI	Page 103
14.1	Relevant News in 2008 typical of the climbing season on McKinley	Page 103
14.2	Park Service Web Site and information	Page 104
14.3	Current Weather on Denali	Page 104

List of Figures (see also Contents and Tables)
Cover Photo	Mt McKinley from the Denali Park Road	Page 1
Figure 1	Around Windy (Icy!) Corner (13,000 ft.) Note storm clouds below	Page 15
Figure 2	Snowshoeing through a snowstorm at 10,000 feet	Page 16
Figure 3	The successful 2005 "3-D" Team on top of McKinley 20,320 ft	Page 19
Figure 4	Throwing the "Poo bag" at 11k into a monster Crevasse	Page 24
Figure 5	Snow Wall surround tents at 14,000 ft, poor weather Clouds and Mt Hunter in the background	Page 26
Figure 6	Proper Tent Pitching in a McKinley Snow Hole	Page 27
Figure 7	Our Group's Climbing Equipment Stash at 14,000 ft	Page 28
Figure 8	Tim Hult Skiing up the Kahiltna 9,500 ft	Page 29
Figure 9	Joe Burton Working Cross word puzzles at 17,200 ft	Page 32
Figure 10	Joe Burton in his Big, -40 F/C Down Sleeping Bag	Page 37
Figure 11	Scott Warner Hefts his Monster Load at 8,000 feet	Page 43
Figure 12	Scott Warner Starts out with way too much weight 2005	Page 52
Figure 13	Scott Warner Practicing crevasse self-rescue on a training trip	Page 53
Figure 14	Mount Hunter from 8,000 ft Camp	Page 54
Figure 15	Skiing up the Lower Kahiltna in a Low Clouds and Fog	Page 55
Figure 16	The Rescue Helicopter Evacuates a climber from 14,000 ft	Page 58
Figure 17	Tim's Summit Kit	Page 64
Figure 18	Going Down from 14,000 to pick up a Cache. Mt Foraker in background	Page 67
Figure 19	Climbers moving up from Windy Corner at Dusk, Mt Hunter in background	Page 67
Figure 20	Joe Burton Prepares a Meal at 11,000 ft	Page 69
Figure 21	Day One Getting Ready to Pulling The Full Load Out of 7,000 ft	Page 69
Figure 22	Typical unbalanced sled position	Page 70
Figure 23	Freezing Fog on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier	Page 79
Figure 24	Moving Up The West Buttress in Foggy Weather (15k 16,000 ft)	Page 80
Figure 25	Joe Burton Disposing the of the "Poo Bag" in a BIG Crevasse at 11,000 ft	Page 83
Figure 26	The High Altitude Poo Bucket and Other Gear at 17k	Page 84
Figure 27	Taking a sponge "bath" at 11,000 ft	Page 86
Figure 28	Alaska Range Memorial Board	Page 92
Figure 29	Denali from 8,000 ft, NE Fork of the Kahiltna (foreground), West Rib (middle), and Denali's 20, 320 ft Summit	Page 93
Figure 30	Clouds "spill" over Kahiltna Pass at 11 PM - 12,000 ft	Page 94
Figure 31	11,000 ft Camp	Page 95
Figure 32	The "ants" Marching up the West Buttress from 14,000 ft to 16,000 ft. on a good weather day	Page 96

List of Tables (see also Contents and Figures)
Table 1	Personal Equipment List	Page 30
Table 2	Group Equipment List	Page 44
Table 3	Non-useful Items	Page 56
Table 4	Clothing List	Page 59
Table 5	Cooking Equipment List	Page 71
Table 6	Hygiene List	Page 81
Table 7	Climbing Schedule Comparison	Page 97