August 29, before the road to Mt Evans was closed for the season, I drove to the
second right-hand switchback above Summit Lake where there is a small parking
area and trail that leads west toward the cliffs above Abyss Lake. I'd scouted
this route last year but if you park on the wrong switchback, it's easy to end
up on Mt Rosalie! Bob Dawson recently posted a trip report on this circuit route
on Fourteener World - I'd never heard the Tour D'Abyss name, but it's
appropriate. I decided to try and find the route. Dropping down about 700'
through the cliff bands was tricky and required a lot more 4th class down
climbing than I'd preferred - maybe there's a better gully for the descent. I
traversed across the drainage below Abyss Lake and south of a small tarn to the
base of the steep looking slopes leading up to the ridge. The hike up the slopes
ended up being quite easy on a mixture of alpine grass and rock. There was no
obvious trail. Once on the ridge, the fun begins. It took me nearly 3 hours
to negotiate several steep rock bands and run the ridge to
the summit of Mt Bierstadt. Plus, most of the day you are above 13,000'. There
is no trail or cairns and the routefinding is very complex and difficult. Many
times, after climbing into dead ends, I had to make 3-5 moves up the least
intimidating short section of 4th-5th class rock. I never found the ledges on
the right side of the ridge as described by Gerry Roach in "Colorado's
Fourteeners" under the Mt Bierstadt East Ridge route description. At the most
difficult rock section below 13,641', I friction climbed a smooth 10-15' section
of 5th class rock on the right of two very prominent parallel cracks/body width
gullies. After 13,641' the climbing is easier 2nd-4th class hiking and
scrambling up to the summit of Mt Bierstadt. I imagine you could run this ridge
several times and not be on the same route. Mainly I remember almost always
finding the easiest passage by staying to the left of the difficult sections
on the ridge.
The Tour D'Abyss now leads down the NE ridge from Bierstadt to the saddle and
the beginning of the Sawtooth - there's a well defined trail not on the ridge
but traversing on the right side of the ridge about 50' below the ridgeline. One
arriving at the saddle, the Sawtooth begins. This was the first time I've
climbed this route, and the trail is well defined with maybe a couple sections
of 4th class climbing with narrow footholds on small ledges. At the top of the
Sawtooth, you scramble down to the saddle between the Sawtooth and the NE ridge
to Mt Evans. From here, the route is easy 2nd-3rd class scrambling for what
seems forever until you intersect the road/parking areas just below the summit
of Evans. Hike the short trail to the summit of Mt Evans and you've completed
two Fourteeners! Hike down the slopes hitting the west side of several
switchbacks in the road until you reach your vehicle. You've completed one of
the more difficult ridge runs and succeeded at complex route finding.
The Tour took me 8 hours, with 3 hours spent picking my way along the ridge to
Mt Bierstadt. TOPO! shows the route as 4.8 miles and 2834' vertical. My Suunto
X-6 recorded total ascent as 3740' which is likely more accurate with all the
ups and downs on the Tour. To test your routefinding skills and confidence
climbing short 4th and 5th class sections of rock, this Tour is hard to beat!
Depending on the experience and confidence of the climbing party, a short
section of rope, harnesses, and helmets could be wise equipment for this route.
It's a very committing route with few bail points - best to be completed with
good weather.
