Longs Peak, Kieners Route
(Long longs for Longs)

24-25 Jul 1999 - by Chris Long

Climbed Longs peak via Kieners route last weekend. Dan Blake and I started up on Saturday afternoon, and made it to our bivy site above Chasm Lake in about 4 hours. Got sprinkled on a little on the way up, but we missed the afternoon thunderstorm.

We stayed with a couple of climbers in a large cave like shelter. They told us about their harrowing experience of being stuck up on the face during the storm with lightning striking all around.

Woke up before sunrise and began climbing up Lambs slide. Passed a friendly group of climbers, and made good time up to broadway.

It was a bit cloudy and windy higher up on the mountain, but that eventually cleared up. Moved across broadway to just past the Notch couloir.

No snow on the ledge to worry about. Roped up and started climbing right from the ledge. On the second pitch, we were in a slot with a view of Chasm Lake far below.

At the end of the slot, you take the exit on the north side, and begin climbing the easier slopes aiming for the dihedral towards the right. When you get to near the dihedral, there are a bunch of cliffs and your route seems to be gone. There are a series of blocks each about five feet higher than the others that you can climb on the right. Once you get to the top of these, you just climb up to the summit on slopes of large talus.

There were about 50 or so people on the top, and the weather was excellent. Some people got a kick out of my summit block head stand.

We descended the cable route, and I thought I had read that it would be one double length rappel to the bottom. Well, I got to the end of my doubled ropes, and still had one single length rappel to go. Did that, then hiked across to the camel and down the loose rocks to the gully that goes back toward our bivy site. We collected our sleeping items and headed down. On the slopes above Chasm Lake, we had one thunder that seemed fairly close, but other than that, the weather was perfect.

Our time was as follows:

Trailhead to Bivy site: 4 Hrs

Bivy to Summit: 5 Hrs

Summit to Bivy: 3 Hrs

Bivy to Trailhead: 2 Hrs

By the way. When you are hiking in to Chasm and you pass the fork in the trail and head down to where you can see peacock bowl, the trail heads south, and then north again. Instead of crossing the small stream and hiking alongside it, you can save time by skipping the trail and heading directly toward the north side of Chasm over rocks. The trail backtracks.

I would highly recommend this trip. I think I went at the perfect time.

To see the pictures for this report, go to: www.mtngoat14k.com/mountaineering/longs.htm

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