Hooper & Julius Caesar

14 Aug 1999 - by David Harris (view roster page)

I led my brother Douglas and younger cousins Baikal (age 15) and Clancy (age 11) on a trans-sierra backpacking trip during the second week of August. From Seldon pass, Baikal and I set out in the late afternoon to climb Mt. Hooper. We brought a 25 meter rope, small rack, and handful of slings in anticipation of the 4th class summit block. As we approached the mountain, my eyes were drawn to the striking fluted east face with steep aretes and chutes rising to the overhanging summit block. The standard route approaches from a notch to the south of the peak and the mountain is also commonly climbed from the north (not listed in Secor). We decided to attempt a route up the prominent east arete just right of the gully that leads directly to the summit. The angle was very steep, but the rock looked well fractured. We scrambled up some sand and slabs to a sloping ramp leading under an arete just left of center of the peak and across the gully at the center of the face to the base of the arete. The arete climbs steeply at first, then becomes flatter and has a jagged notch. It crests right at the summit block of the peak. We belayed six pitches of 4th class and simulclimbed one more (with a proper 50 meter rope, this should amout to about 3 roped pitches). The climbing was a very enjoyable classic Sierra ridge ascent featuring good solid holds all the way with the exception of a few areas of looser rock where the angle backs off. The exposure was dramatic and the scenery beautiful on an otherwise insignificant summit. As we believe this may have been a first ascent, I name the route "Baikal's Arete." If anyone has evidence to the contrary, I would appreciate a report. The gully just left of the arete looks like it would probably also go at 4th class; the next ridge to the left has some steep blankish parts and might offer a bit of 5th class climbing before it eases off. Later in the trip, Baikal and I climbed Julius Caesar from Lake Italy via what Secor calls a "classic" 3rd class West Ridge. We zoomed up the hump west of the true peak and encountered a few bits of fun 3rd class by taking on a cliff band directly; we could easily have bypassed the cliffs and avoided unnecessary altitude by cutting to the right. We then ascended the ridge to old Julius. I stayed within 10 feet of the crest of the ridge and made almost all of the moves with no hands, making the route nearly class 1, but in a few places I started to topple and needed to place my wrists against the rock, technically granting the ridge class 2 status. Nowhere on the route could we find anything resembling classic 3rd class like Arrow Peak or Mt. Russell. Has anyone found Secor's route?


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