North by North Peak
7-8 Oct 1996 - by Brian Boyle
There are three spectacular couloirs on the northern side
of North Peak. On the first weekend in October 1995, Bob
Spies and I drove to Saddlebag Lake with the intention of
climbing the standard, right-most couloir. We left the
parking lot at 7:30 am on Saturday. On the hike in we met
three guys who had just come off the mountain. They told
us that we could easily third class the route.
We began climbing around noontime and sure enough,
there was no need to rope up. The moderate angle - 60
degrees - and consolidated snow made this climb a
straightforward proposition. At the top of the couloir we
left our day packs and scrambled up third class rock to the
summit. We reached the summit at 2:30 pm.
The weather was beautiful and we could see for miles in
every direction. After retrieving our packs we hiked down
scree slopes on the south side of the mountain. We arrived
back at the parking lot at 6 pm.
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