North Peak
(Northwest Ridge)

2 Sep 2001 - by Chris Gould

Secor lists a route up the Northwest Ridge of North Peak that goes at 5.3. The ridge sure looks nice from Saddlebag Lake, so John Rogers and I decided to take a look. Checking out the map raised a question, the ridge appeared to meet the summit plateau fairly early, would there be enough climbing?

Well, it's a pretty short route. We started at the lowest point of the ridge and were forced to rope up earlier than we expected for a couple fifth class moves out of a notch. From here we simul-climbed over mostly third and fourth class terrain past a second and third notch. The route looks more interesting from here, but we were a little surprised to find that it's only one more rope length to the plateau.

If you're looking for a full day of climbing, you might want to consider another route. But for a nice loop over a summit with great views mixed with a bit of exposed climbing, it's not a bad way to go. Faster climbers who want to climb both North Peak and Conness could link the Northwest Ridge with the North Ridge of Conness for a pretty good day.


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