Revised Feb 2009 - please send updates to the webmaster
Yes, we're all here to climb the peak. But look around also! Jerome to the south, Sunset Crater to the east, Indian ruins everywhere... and some of them are still impressive structures even after being picked over for centuries.
Go to Flagstaff. There is a somewhat confusing jumble of highways here, but you'll somehow end up at the intersection of Business I-40 and Hwy 180. Go north from there on Hwy 180 and the bustle of the city drops off almost instantly.
If, like me, you want a quiet and free place to camp legally, Leave Hwy 180 (at waypoint SPJ180) at the signed turnoff for Shultz Pass. Go due east on pavement, and don't miss the left turn (north at waypoint SPRMEL) where Shultz Pass Road forks left and Mt Eden Lookout Road continues east. It's sort of bumpy dirt, once the pavement ends about a mile from the highway, but drivable in any vehicle. About two miles from Hwy 180 you'll see a sign (at waypoint SPCAMP) that announces camping is legal beyond the fence.
To climb the peak, leave Hwy 180 at the well-signed Arizona Snow Bowl turnoff (waypoint ABJ180), a paved ski resort road. There are other trailheads around 9k (where you MIGHT be able to camp, but no signs say it's OK). Stay on the pavement all the way to the highest parking lot, which is a left turn into a dirt parking loop just before the gate for the ski resort (closed in summer/fall). It's a huge parking lot, with a couple of portable toilets and a trailhead sign but no other facilities. The trailhead (waypoint AZBOWL) is at the northeast corner.
The signed Humphreys Trail is easy to find, going north-northeast across a meadow before turning east in the trees and climbing a series of huge switchbacks before traversing back into the drainage where you parked. The trail is excellent almost all the way to the ridge, but along the ridge there is some minor scrambling. See my 2008 trip report for climbing details.